Crossing Chile on Horseback

by Beverly Stelljes

For those looking for a wilderness experience which includes the many challenges and rewards that come from immersing yourself not only in the out- of -doors but also in the culture of a land, this is it! My husband and I are wilderness seekers and have had our share of working with outfitters who promise a wilderness experience but have left us desiring more culture and more wilderness. Not so with this trip!

Our trip began with the delight of having our guide arrive at the hosteria looking like anything but a guide! He was a true working "rancher" and what a pleasure it was to sit back and watch this man work in his element.

Our first day entailed saddling up on some of the most sure-footed horses I have ever ridden. I have owned horses for 25 years and ridden many places and never felt as in awe of what these animals were capable of and how comfortable the ride. Sitting atop 3 - 4 sheep skins with our guide in his beret, wool poncho and sheep skin chaps we were off!

Riding through old growth forests, thick bamboo stands filled with blooming fuchsia bushes we crossed beautiful glacier fed streams to arrive at a stream crossing where we met up with a group of native Chilean's loading a packhorse with wood flooring. This was an amazing work of art and engineering to watch this loaded horse cross a roaring river loaded with wood which was going to this rancher's home 20 miles away! The last we were to see of people for many days!

Our first night the rain started and our guide found a small barn for us for camp. The rain came but sitting under a roof with a backdrop of waterfalls, glaciers and a beautiful stream our spirits would not be affected by rain! To sit quietly and watch our guide at work was like watching a National Geographic special.

The next several days consist of more varied terrain that you could possibly ever dream of. We had glacier-topped mountains, waterfalls to climb and cross on horse back, open fields with a small farm here and there. As we were riding through a beautiful open pasture that had been cleared by the "slash & burn" method we observed a horse & rider coming our way. This scene was South America's version of The Sound of Music. A young native Chilean girl came galloping over the hillside with her toddler brother sitting in front of her riding atop the layers of sheep skins! No words were exchanged but the sparkle in the children's eyes told you they were happy just to see us! Our guide exchanged some greetings and we sent off the waves and smiles of these two lovely children.

We ride for a day along the steep sides of the lake always in view of the lake or the glaciers that surround it. We arrive at our guide's ranch in awe and wonder. Sitting on the side of the lake, here is a place of meticulous workmanship. Without the benefit of nails, hinges, posts and all the modern day conveniences he has built himself a home, barn, fences and corral for his horses over looking an isolated lake with glaciers as its backdrop! His words to us as we arrive at his home are " Mi casa , tu casa”. No electricity, no plumbing, no TV's, no Internet or hot shower and yet he is inviting us to make ourselves at home! He is so willing to share what we might consider the bare necessities. Never did we feel more welcome and comfortable!

The beauty of communicating silently throughout the trip allowed us a unique experience. Then being able to share all of this together over wonderful food and wonderful company was the perfect ending.

Having Chris put this all together for us was not like dealing with an outfitting company but more like having a good friend or relative in the area that wants to show you all that they have come to know and love of the country.

We have had many wilderness experiences throughout our travels. From being flown in by float plane and being dropped off with just ourselves and our canoe in the wilderness of Canada, to riding the Bitterroots along the Lewis and Clark trail with a veteran rancher from the mountains, to exploring Alaska on horseback and rafting, but this trip by far is our greatest experience.